Replacing worn cables

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As things were put together on the front end, a few lines were needed to make the bike operable and safe.

Previous posts mentioned a new speedometer cable. Still working on the speedometer bracket but will be hooking it up soon.

The brakes needed a new line from the Master Cylinder to the joint for the dual calipers. Both were bought from vendors on eBay at good prices, better than OEM.

After lubricating the bike, the clutch cable was still an awful pull. I’ve ridden many bikes and nothing was ever as stiff as this clutch cable. My old hand would need a glove to work that cable all day long.

A stiff cable can mean different things. If it doesn’t loosen up with lubrication, then the cable may be kinked or it may be fraying inside the sheath, among other things.

I didn’t plan or want to change out another line but had a really good deal on the cable. It was actually too good to pass up. I never used before so I’ll see how it goes.

So, it was either replace the cable, add instructions on how to ride with a broken clutch cable (see below) or recommend this savurride.

In the meantime…Merry Christmas Future Owner!

Next: Three bikes are better than one


*How to ride with a broken cable: Try pulling the inner cable by hand to engage the clutch. If that doesn’t work, attach a set of locking pliers to the clutch actuator arm which is near the left foot on the majority of motorcycles. Move the pliers instead of grabbing the clutch lever to shift. If locking pliers aren’t available, the bike can be shifted without clutching when necessary…just be prepared for a very rough stop.

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